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Small Town Detours Nevada:A Guide to the Silver State |
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(St. George, Utah)—Glendale—Las Vegas—(Baker, California);
US 91.
Arizona Line to California Line, 128.3 m.
Pared roadbed throughout.
Union Pacific Ry. parallels route between a point just west of Glendale and the California Line.
Accommodations limited except in Las Vegas.
It is well to carry drinking water in case of motor trouble, particularly if Cleaving main route though as a general rule water can be obtained along the main highway at abo*t ao-mile intervals.
US 91 crosses the extreme southern tip of Nevada, where some ranching areas are hidden behind starkly eroded foot hills, and beyond stretches of rolling desert. Weird, beautiful formations of the kind characteristic of the Grand Canyon country are seen throughout. The highway follows the Virgin River for ten miles, crosses Muddy River just west of Glendale, and continues through awe-inspiring terrain. High, rugged mountains are visible on both sides above a valley floor with vegetation including cacti, Joshua trees, and Spanish bayonet. US 91 roughly follows the old Spanish Trail, which in ^ this section became part of the Mormon Road to Southern California.
Section a. UTAH LINE to LAS VEGAS, 85.5 m.
US 91 crosses the ARIZONA LINE, 0 m., at a point 46 miles southwest of St. George, Utah.
MESQUITE, 1.7 m. (1,700 alt., 512 pop.), is a trade center of a ranching country settled by Mormons in 1880 on the bank of the Virgin River. It was abandoned a few years later, but resettled by Mormons in 1895.
On the opposite side of the Virgin River is BUNKERVILLE, 7 m. (2,500 alt., 287 pop.), one of the oldest community centers of ranchers producing vegetables, melons, and grapes. It has been subject to occasional river floods and in the summer of 1936 was struck by a cloudburst that caused considerable damage. The grapevines are off-shoots of stock from France and Spain.
At Bunkerville, as in many other Mormon colonies in the early days, the community operated under the United Order, wherein every person contributed according to his capacity, shared according to his needs, and participated in mutual ownership and management of all community properties. This form of economic organization was adopted so that the struggling colony could bring irrigation waters from the river to the high bench.
Southwest of RIVERSIDE, 11.5 m. (2,250 alt.), which is merely a gas station, the road continues along the high benchland of Virgin Valley to a junction with paved Nev. 12, at 36 m.
Left on Nev. is, through the lower Moapa Valley, from which come turkeys, cantaloupe, watermelons, and vegetables. This valley was the center of the tax controversy that led to a Mormon exodus in 1871.
The early settlers in this region had paid their taxes in kind—in cotton, grain, livestock, and so on—to Arizona. But after a Federal survey in 1869 these lands were allocated to Nevada and Lincoln County demanded the back taxes and insisted that they be paid in gold. As a result Brigham Young ordered
al! the colonists home to Utah though they had already spent considerable money and effort on irrigation systems and homes. For many years thereafter the land the colonists had cleared remained idle; later many of die original settlers returned and bought the land back from the State.
The exodus and the demonetization of silver in 1873 left Lincoln County, then one of the largest counties in the West, in dire financial trouble.
OVERTON, 12 m. (1,360 alt., 603 pop ), another old Mormon settlement is the valley's community center. Formerly it was part of the Patterson Ranch, which was purchased by a Utah woman when the settlers returned in 1881. The early Mormon communities of the valley were such models of thrift and industry that more than one traveler, Frederick Dellenbaugh, wrote: "As pioneers the Mormons were superior to any class I have ever come in contact with, their idea being homemaking and not skimming the cream off the country with a six-shooter and a whiskey bottle." Because of the valley's isolation the pioneer family names are in a majority here. With the fall in agricultural prices many of the little ranches have been saved only through Farm Security loans.
The OVERTON MUSEUM (R), 13 m., erected by the C.C.C. and under control of the National Park Service, is of adobe. It houses relics found in the ruins of Lost City, an ancient Indian village now covered by Mead Lake (see First Nevadans). Lost City, about 5 miles south of Overton, is sometimes called Pueblo Grande de Nevada; it belonged to the third Pueblo period. Among the artifacts and other relics is a skeleton, preserved as when it was found. By the museum is a reconstruction of a kiva and ceremonial place of the kind indicated by the remains of Lost City.
Nev. 12 curves eastward above the canyon of the Muddy River, which is now an arm of Lake Mead, to the junction with the unpayed Valley of Fire road (R), 15 m. (Though this approach from a paved road it shorter, the approach from Crystal—see ahead—is much more spectacular.)
Nev. ifc continues down to the shore of LAKE MEAD, 19 m.} where recreational facilities are being developed. Near this point was the Mormon village of St Thomas, which has been inundated. While creation of the lake covered some of the fertile land on which the Moapa Valley people depended, the loss will be far more than compensated by the growing tourist business.
Slightly southwest of GLENDALE, 37 m. (4,453 alt.), chiefly a large service station on US 91, is the junction with US 93 (see Tour 2£), which unites with US 91 between this point and Las Vegas.
US 91-93 crosses the Muddy River and then rolling country that would he bleak were it not for many-colored strata. When these are bathed in a misty purple light late in the afternoon they have the awe-inspiring grandeur of all Colorado Basin formations. The rock, highly eroded, has been so sharply tilted in many places that formerly horizontal strata are now vertical.
CRYSTAL, 52.5 m., is merely a name on the map at the junction with the unpaved Valley of Fire Road.
Left on this gently wandering route, which gradually climbs through grease- wood to a low ridge at 16 m.t where a casually home-made sign indicates that the edge of the VALLEY OF FIRE STATE PARK has been reached. The road curves (R) to swing around the shallow head of a canyon whose coloring resembles the deep rose in the heart of a large sea-shell. Travelers at this point give conventional murmurs of praise, mingled with slight disappointment. The road again curves (L) and begins its descent between walls that rapidly become higher and redder. Far ahead for a moment appears a deep-blue strip of Lake Mead. The road continues its leisurely way. At 20 m., where the canyon is widest and makes a sharp turn (R), is a campsite and shelter of stone, ft does
not seem possible that any place could be surrounded by more vivid color. Yet as the road winds ahead die red of the walls increases in intensity and evan the ground assumes the same intense hue. A final twist and an ascent begins. Here great masses of rock are piled into fantastic figures; the walls have been eroded into pillars, elephants, camels. At one point the road swerves to avoid a gigantic stone false-face leering diabolically. In this section the vegetation along the roadside is a bright blue-green dusted with white and caves and windows have been sandblasted into the fiery walls. The climax of color and eerie formations is reached in a very narrow pass, 24 m., high above die northern arm of Lake Mead. In this valley of flame, which more than earns its name when the sun is low, are petroglyphs carved by long forgotten people, and also the petrified remains of ancient forest trees.
The road descends rapidly from the pass on a rocky slope diat gives little hint of the flaming pocket southward. At 25 m. is the junction with Nev. x* (see before), at a point 3 miles east of Overton,
Southwest of Crystal US 91-93 crosses rocky desert sparsely covered with greasewood, cactus, and an occasional yucca. Passing a dry lake bed (R), it skirts a spur of the Las Vegas Range to reach the long, straight, comparatively level stretch with Las Vegas a toy city in the distance.
At 75.4 m. is the junction with a dirt road.
Left here (carry water and candlet if exploring cave; guide advisable) to GYPSUM CAVE, 7*6 m., which was discovered by early settlers. Unaware of deposits here of great scientific importance the chief interest of early visitors was in the gypsum deposits, which were later exploited to some extent under a mineral claim. Only in very recent yeare was it discovered that deep in the cave, which extends inward about 300 feet and has six rooms, were layer after layer of excrement of the prehistoric giant sloth covering and preserving the bones of the early sloth and other prehistoric animals, and, far more important, evidence that man was one of the sloth's contemporaries. Stone points that capped primitive javelins, fragments of charcoal, and painted dart shafts were found (see Early Nevadans and Plants and dnimals). Inside the entrance, which is 70 feet wide but only 15 feet high, the ground slopes sharply downward 50 feet to the first room.
At 78.5 m. on US 91-93 is the junction with an improved road.
Left here sharply to the LAI VEGAS AIRPORT, 1 m.> where the bleached akulli of cattle have been used to border the field.
In LAS VEGAS, 85.5 m. (2,033 alt, 10,000 pop.), are junctions with US 95 (see TOUT $c) and US 466-93 (see Tour
Railroad Station: W. end of Fremont St, for Union Pacific Co.
Bus Stations: Burlington Lines, Las Vegas-Needles Lines, Central Bus Station, 9
Fremont St; Union Pacific Bus Depot, * Fremont St.; Las Vegas-Tonopah-
Reno Stage Line, Overland Hotel.
Airport: Municipal, 8 m. N. E. (see before) for Western Air Express & T. W. A.
Accommodations: Hotels, boarding houses, inns, auto courts, and trailer camp-
grounds.
Tourist Information Service: Chamber of Commerce, 113 South Third St
Motion Picture Houses: Two.
Golf: 9-hole sand course at Country Club, 8. Main St (US 91), and a 9-hole
grass course 3.3 mi. N. W. of US 95.
Swimming: Lorenzi's Pool, 2 m NW of city; Mermaid Pool, 113 N. Fifth St
LAS VEGAS—The Meadows of Mexico travelers on the old trail between Santa Fe and Southern California—is seat of Clark County and distributing center for a very large but thinly populated mining and ranching country. It is also developing into one of the chief travel and recreation centers of the Southwest. In part this new role is a matter of accident, the result of a key position in an area with widely varying natural attractions plus the man-made wonder, Boulder Dam. A sound and far-sighted public policy, however, has taken advantage of national interest in the dam to make the city and the area around it attractive enough to bring visitors back repeatedly. Attractive public buildings and houses are under construction all over town, the rows of catalpas and of poplars planted during the early days of the town, are being protected and lengthened. Relatively little emphasis is placed on the gambling clubs and divorce facilities—though they are attractions to many visitors—and much effort is being made to build up cultural attractions. No cheap and easily parodied slogans have been adopted to publicize the city, no attempt has been made to introduce pseudo-romantic architectural themes, or to give artificial glamor and gaiety. Las Vegas is itself—natural and therefore very appealing to people with a very wide variety of interests.
All the world meets on the broad sunny streets—eastern businessmen interested in studying the amazing powerhouse 20 miles away on the river, and in playing a bit of roulette in the evenings, health-seekers basking in the brilliant sunshine, an occasional Paiute woman with baby cradled on her back, toothless prospectors in town for a new grubstake, cowboys rolling along in elaborate high-heeled boots, ranchers and their wives buying supplies and seeing the movies, young people rushing down to Lake Mead to swim or up to camp to ski in the Charleston Mountains, men and women of any age on their way to the stables for horses, local men and women going to rehearsals of the little theater group.
The townsite covers 12 square miles on a plain with distant mountains in view on every side—the many colored Charleston Range particularly conspicuous on the west. Within the city, whose business center is close to a new and very modern Union Pacific station at the head of Fremont Street, are Old Town—West Las Vegas—where many of the simpler houses stand; North Las Vegas, a suburb where large houses have been built; and an inner residential district with many modern homes. Beyond this fringe, on all sides, is the desert.
The town is particularly lively at night. Neon lights call attention to the bars, gambling and night clubs, in which Hollywood celebrities, miners, prospectors, divorcees, corporation presidents, cowboys, and little old maids bent on seeing life at last, add to the stacks of silver dollars and watch the whirl of roulette wheels, or splash ink over the horse keno slips. Some restaurants are crowded till dawn.
An annual event, Heldorado, staged in the spring, celebrates the Old West, with four days of whiskers, bustles, hoops and boisterous fun, The women wear the long full skirts, basques, and bonnets of frontier
days; and the men, half lost In beards, flaunt jeans, boots, gay shirts, and huge hats. Parades, a rodeo, street dances, and other events intended to recreate the early spirit turn Las Vegas into a rollicking hybrid of two vastly different eras.
The natural meadows and the springs on the Old Spanish Trail, which curved north from Sante Fe and west around the Colorado River to Southern California, were known soon after 1776, when the Escalante party made the first attempt to establish a trail between Sante Fe, New Mexico, and the missions in California, to promote trade in donkeys and mules. Although this expedition advanced no farther than the valleys of central Utah and apparently returned to Sante Fe without traversing the Las Vegas area, others later extended the route they had started to explore. By 1830 caravans of traders were using the trail regularly and the big springs and meadows of the Las Vegas valley were a welcome camping place on this circuitous desert route. Whether the old mine workings found in the area south of Las Vegas (particularly Eldorado Canyon) belong to the Spanish or Mexican periods is unknown. Possibly they predate the Escalante expedition.
Captain John C. Fremont in reporting his visit here in 1844 wrote of "a camping ground called Las Vegas. . . . Two narrow streams of water, four or five feet deep, gush suddenly, with a quick current, from two singularly large springs . . . the taste of the water is good but rather too warm to be agreeable."
Jefferson Hunt, sent late in 1847 from Salt Lake by the Church of the Latter Day Saints to obtain seed and foodstuffs in California, camped at this spot and reported favorably on it when he returned. Soon the springs were a stopping-place for people traveling from Salt Lake City to California by the southern route. The springs today are in a basin from ao to 30 feet in diameter; the powerful upward rush of water flowing from them makes a stream from 6 to 8 feet in width. They are slightly northwest of the city and a resort has been established near by. The first American occupation of Las Vegas came in 1855, when William Bringhurst of the City of Great Salt Lake, arrived with a band of 30 young men detailed by Brigham Young, "to go to Las Vegas, build a fort there to protect immigrants and the United States mail from the Indians, and to teach the latter how to raise corn, wheat, potatoes, squash, and melons."
The settlers cleared the mesquite away; built an adobe stockade 14 feet high and 150 feet long; hauled logs from the Charleston Mountains to the west; built cabins, fences, a dam and bridges; and planted crops. The enclosure was referred to as The Fort. Some of the orchards and vineyards started then, still bear. On January 10, 1856, a post office was opened and named Bringhurst for the president of the mission.
Families followed the men and a school was built inside The Fort. Meetings were also held in this building. The Mormon gospel was preached with typical zeal, and it ii related that "many Indians were converted and baptized."
The history of Las Vegas Mission records one of the few instances in which mining was practiced by Mormon pioneers. When the existence of extensive lead deposits in a district some 18 miles southwest of the little colony was reported to Brigham Young, he at once dispatched Nathaniel V. Jones to the area, investing Jones with authority to call the settlers and missionaries to his aid in "mining and manufacturing'* lead. The first ore was smelted in December, 1856, and 9,000 pounds were run off, but the metal was found to be "very hard to smelt," as Jones reported. He also said that attempts to cast the metal in bullet molds had given poor results.
On January 28, 1857, the mines were abandoned, though it was not until 1861 that the reason for the poor luck in bullet-making was brought to light In that year miners more familiar with their business discovered that the "lead" of the Mormons was a galena ore carrying silver.
But it was not this bullet-making fiasco alone that brought an end to the Las Vegas colony. Despite conscientious attempts to teach the Indians the rudiments of agriculture and the presentation of generous gifts, the Paiutes could never quite overcome their natural habit of helping themselves to whatever unguarded livestock, provisions, or crops they saw. The venture simply was not profitable; and with trouble from the Federal government reaching a peak, Young called for a concentration of Mormons near the Great Salt Lake. On February 23, 1857, the settlers were "released" from the mission. To those few who remained to harvest the crop a final blow came when the "remnants of Israel," as the Indians were called, descended and carried away the entire crop.
Though Las Vegas was entirely abandoned, the cabins and the stockades the Mormons built remained. Carriers of the overland mail were glad to break their trips at the protected spot near Vegas Springs.
Following the Mormon abdication, O. D. Gass acquired the land and water rights. During the Civil War, three companies of cavalry and one company of infantry were stationed by the spring for the protection of the travel route to southern California and the post was called Fort Baker. Mining began in the surrounding regions and Eldorado Canyon was an important gold and silver producer.
About the time Gass acquired the ranch—and until 1869—it was in the Territory of Arizona and Gass sat in the legislature of that territory. He operated the ranch with Indian labor. One day a recalcitrant native was killed and Gass hastily fled with his family to Barstow. When post riders and other travelers brought no reports of an uprising or of signs of devastation, Gass made a hesitant reconnaissance. Approaching the old stockade he was amazed to find water running in the irrigation ditches and his place as well cared for as if he had never left it. Looking cautiously around he discovered Qua-ech, a wily old Indian who had long fingered about but never done any work; the Paiute was sitting on top of a hay-mow directing operations in his favorite costume—a bright red blanket and a high
top hat some miners had given to him. Inclining his head gravely he gave the long-absent owner a full account of affairs on the estate, acting as though he had been the duly appointed superintendent. Gass' mystification apparently showed in his face because after the report had been given, Qua-ech, with twinkling eye, said abruptly, "Why you no ask squaw how much for brave?" It had not occurred to Gass that his dilemma might be settled in this simple manner. The squaw felt her strong position and bargained long but the affair was eventually settled. The price of peace for Las Vegas was $18.
In 1882 the ranch and water rights were acquired by Archibald Stewart, a forty-niner who had made his stake in Angel's Camp and later established a cattle ranch about 100 miles north of Las Vegas. Stewart's wife was induced to come to Las Vegas with her small children on what was to have been a visit lasting a single season, but this became the home of the delicately bred young woman until her death in 1929. Three other children were born in the following years, two of them in her mother's home in California. For many years neighbors were far away and the children had to be taught at home; eventually they were sent to school in California* Under such conditions social life developed along unusual lines; a single dance meant a party lasting nearly a week. News and mail came in by pony rider. Chief diversions of the flock of children were horseback riding and hunting. Stewart was killed during a quarrel by the owner of the Kyle Ranch—now the Taylor Ranch. When word was brought to Mrs. Stewart that her husband was dead she immediately set off on horseback to bring back his body. Lacking wood, she had to take the doors of her house to make a coffin. Later Mrs. Stewart married again; but in the meantime the had increased her holdings and ranching activities*
In 1903 when the San Pedro, Los Angeles and Salt Lake Railroad was projected, the ranch was bought for a townsite and division point by W. A. Clark, former senator from Montana, acting for the company. Before the railroad's townsite was opened another townsite beside it—now Old Town—was acquired by J. T. McWilliams. People flooded in, in part because of the boom in the newly discovered Bullfrog and Greenwater Districts. Known as McWilliamstown then, the camp was prosperous and busy by reason of the immense freighting business to the mines.
On May 15, 1905, Las Vegas was really born. Around a platform greeted under a spreading mesquite tree near the present freight depot, yearly 3,000 people gathered to hear C. O. Wittemore, representing the railroad company, explain guarantees of future development contained in the bills of sales for lots. These included a water system that would place water under pressure on every lot, the improvement of all the streets, the building of a handsome depot and other railroad structures, and, finally the erection of railroad shops to employ several hundred men. The sale of lots lasted two days, and during that time 1,200
were sold at a total price of $265,000. The promises of the company were taken seriously—and they were all fulfilled.
On the morning of the 17th, tents and lumber and other building materials were being enthusiastically hauled to the site. Because the streets had not yet been cleared, eager men and women had to search among the greasewood for the stakes marking their lot corners. Before darkness came the town had appeared—a grotesque assortment of buildings in all possible stages of completion. In tents were a post office, saloons, and gambling houses, as well as hotels and a bant The hotel was a huge canvas structure 140 feet long, with large additions for dining room and kitchen. Until the following winter this great ungainly tent was the center of all social activities.
But within 30 days Las Vegas was more than a tent town. Stores and houses were taking shape everywhere. During the summer, the Las Vegas Land and Water Company, a subsidiary of the railroad company, graded and oiled 10 miles of city streets, built concrete or wooden curbs throughout the town, and brought water to every lot
With the completion of the railroad from Salt Lake in June, 1905, and the construction of the Las Vegas & Tonopah Railroad in 1906, Las Vegas rode into commercial and political importance. In 1908 more substantial buildings were erected; and to protect them a volunteer fire department was organized. In 1909 the town became the seat of the newly organized Clark County.
In January, 1910, however, a phenomenal rainstorm wrecked no miles of railroad track in the Muddy Valley Wash south of Caliente (see Tour a£), and more than five months elapsed before train service was resumed. Las Vegas was largely deserted and hard times ensued. In October of the same year fire of incendiary origin destroyed the school.
But the town revived; in 1911 the legislature passed a bill creating the City of Las Vegas. In 1925, after the water from Las Vegas Springs was found to be inadequate for city needs, an artesian well was sunk that brought up three and a half million gallons every 24 hours. In 1937, after the Boulder Dam construction boom, the city, looking forward to continued growth, sank another, which produced a larger flow than the first During dam construction days the town was the scene of much shipping and had a greatly augmented population. Few people, however, then realized the possibilities of the city as a resort center. When realization came the residents extended their activities to development of the region as well as the city, sure that whatever brought business to Clark County would benefit its railroad center and county seat
POINTS OF INTEREST
i. The UNION PACIFIC STATION, completed in 1940, stands in a shaded park squarely across the head of Fremont Street. Its long horizontal planes and great windows make it a satisfying example of the modern International design.
2. The CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (open weekdays 9-5), 113 S. 3rd St., is a one-story stuccoed structure housing a tourist bureau, a small collection of frontier relics, and the Rockwell collection of arrowheads. During rush seasons the bureau is sometimes open far into the night to assist visitors in finding places in hotels and auto courts. The policy and practice of this Chamber of Commerce are worth study by those interested in publicity techniques.
The LAS VEGAS CITY PARK, an area bisected by cross-streets and lying between 2nd and 5th, Stewart and Linden Sts., is being developed as a civic center.
3. The FEDERAL BUILDING, in the park on Stewart St, between and and 5th, is of the standard Government design. Above a first story faced with limestone is a second story of brick accented by limestone pilasters with Ionic caps. A balustraded parapet crowns the eaves. This structure houses the post office and Federal court.
4. The WAR MEMORIAL BUILDING, also in the park, on Stewart St., between 4th and 5th, is a huge brick building striking in its simplicity. The central third of the facade is stepped forward and further accented by four very narrow vertical piers. The tiers of windows on the other thirds are recessed and separated by shallower piers. The only ornament at the roofline is provided by a slight rise in the central third and its piers. The interior is equally simple. The ends of the foyer are occupied by offices and stairways and over the foyer are rooms rented to the American Legion. In the large auditorium, which has a hardwood floor, are movable seats, as the hall is used for dances and prizefights as well as for lectures, concerts, and the performances of the competent little theater group. The stage, one of the largest in the Southwest, has full equipment for professional productions and also elaborate lighting devices. The construction was done entirely with WPA labor.
5. The LAS VEGAS RACETRACK AND BALL PARK, on 5th St, between Stewart and Linden, is used for rodeos, baseball, races of various kinds, and for the popular Softball, which is played in the evening under flood lighting. The grandstand seats 700 and bleachers hold twice as many,
6. HELDORADO PARK, on 5th St., opposite the sports park, is a stockaded area controlled by the Elks. This is the center of the annual celebration. The fraternal organization has been making a collection of old vehicles and other relics for use in the parades. These are kept in the park and the plan is to make them the nucleus of a museum. In addition to stagecoaches, oxcarts, early automobiles, ore carts, and the like, is * much prized relic, a one-room iron jail.
7. By 5th St., on the bank of Las Vegas Creek, a short distance north of Heldorado Park, are the remnants of the Mormon stockade about the STEWART RANCHHOUSE. Very tall old cottonwoods shade these relics of early Las Vegas, which have seen Mormon missionaries, Union troops, stage drivers, untamed Paiutes, horseback mail-carriers,
pioneer homesteaders, and construction workers on Boulder Dam—one of the mightiest works ever undertaken by man. By the gate is a memorial plaque erected by Desert Holly Camp of the Daughters of Utah Pioneers.
Section b. LAS VEGAS to CALIFORNIA LINE, 42.8 m.
South of LAS VEGAS, 0 m., US 91 continues over rolling desert studded with creosote bush and cactus. At 11.5 m. is the junction with a dirt road.
Right on this road and across the Spring Mountain Range, at 23 m., to the fertile Pahrump Valley, a stock-raising area bordered by mining districts. In the heart of the valley is MANSE, once part of the ranch holdings of Eugene Cazerung, a land baron who was shot and killed in a quarrel with his Mexican ranch foreman. This valley was early settled by a man named Younts, who brought horses south with a partner. They were attacked by Indians on the Amargosa Desert and lost most of their livestock but decided to settle anyway.
SLOAN, 19.5 m., a way station, is below Black Mountain (5,042 alt.), which rises at the northern end of the McCuUough Range.
Right from Sloan to the BLUE DIAMOND, 3 m., a large deposit of limestone worked throughout the year.
The country now traversed by US 91, dotted with low hills and dry lake beds, has long seen mining activity. In spite of its barrenness it has great beauty when its colors are heightened under the burning red clouds at sunset or in the tranquil blue light of the early hours. Far north is snow-capped Charleston Peak, towering above La Madre Mountain.
JEAN, 30.2 m. (2,865 alt, 50 pop.), a railroad station on the Union Pacific, has an emergency landing field.
Right from Jean on paved Nev. 53 to GOODSPRINGS, 7 m.f an old mining district at the eastern base of the Spring Mountain Range. The camp is a producer of gold, silver, platinum, and vanadium. Many motion pictures have been filmed in the vicinity because within a radius of a few miles is practically every type of scenery needed for typical "westerns"—mountains, rolling desert, dried water holes, and primitive mining activities.
The region is sparsely covered with cactus and Joshua trees. Also here is a rare member of the catalpa family whose appearance is that of a willow except in early summer when it is covered with a fluttering mass of pink and white flowers resembling those of the snapdragon. East of Goodsprings, Nev. 53 crosses the Spring Mountain Range to the California Line, 22 «., at a point $5 miles north of Valley Wells.
Continuing its gradual ascent from Jean, US 91 skirts a dry lake bed and crosses rolling country in the shadow of Devil Peak (5,865 alt.),'a mountain that was a landmark for early travelers. At its base five men on their way to Las Vegas from San Bernardino disagreed over the division of some ore they had gathered. In a gun fight all were killed outright or received wounds from which they died. When their bodies were found several days later, their gold and silver ore, said to have assayed $1,000 to the ton, was piled around them. Even
l$2 NEVADA
today "desert rats" of southern Nevada from rime to time try to find the source of that rich ore.
US 91 crosses the CALIFORNIA LINE, 42.8 m*> at a point 50 miles northeast of Baker, California.